Starter

Grille

Barracuda - A paint that you can get over the counter that looks very close to original argent paint for these argent grilles is "Plasti-Kote PL-285 cast finish."  This is different from the dark argent you get from most places.  Please do understand that the barracuda grilles should be medium argent looking NOT light argent. Dave Wise describes in his manual (Finer Points of Mopar E Body) in 1970 the grille was medium argent and in 1971 it was a neutral argent with some being painted body color (71 'Cuda only).  71 'Cuda painted grilles were available in FJ6, GY3, FC7, GW3, EV2, GB5, GF7, GK6 and FE5. These grilles were standard on 'Cuda through build date 8/8/70. After this date the color keyed grilles were optional.  1971 Barracuda's did not have color keyed grilles.  1972-74 Barracuda center of headlight rings are painted flat black.  The inside right/ left of the grille paint black and the outer perimeter is painted in redish flat paint.  The grille should be panted in argent silver.  1970-71 Challenger Non R/T and T/A grills are painted argent.  The egg crate center is natural egg crate color not cast or black on all 1970 Challenger models.  1970-71 Challenger R/T and T/A outside portion of the grills are black.  1972-74 Challenger grilles headlight ring center section are chrome plated.  The inside of the grille should be painted black for the rallye model and argent for the base model.  The outside edge should be painted argent silver.  The lower grills were available in argent silver only but have been found in natural grey/silver.

Suspension

Front suspension colors are as follows(E body):
Brake Rotor splash shields(70-72) - Satin black
Brake Rotor splash shields(73-74) - Galvanized
Brake calipers - Natural
Disc brake caliper mounts - Natural
Drag link - Natural (heat treated look)
Front drum backing plates - phosphate
Front Brake Rotors - Natural
Front brake grease cups - galvanized
Front brake wheel cylinder - Natural
Front brake drums - Natural
Front sway bar - Satin black
Front spindles - Natural
Idler arm - Natural (forged look)
Lower control arms - Natural with a Cosmoline coating. About 90% of these arms had this coating and the other 10% or so where painted black.
Lower ball joints - Natural (forged look)
Manual steering gear box - Natural
Pitman arm - Natural (forged look)
Power steering gear box - satin black
Strut Rods - Natural (heat treated look)
Steering Column shaft - Natural (heat treated look) or satin black
Steering column coupler - Natural
Shocks - satin black
Tie rod ends - Natural (forged look)
Tie rods - Natural (heat treated look)
Tie rod clamps - Natural
Upper control arm - Natural

Throttle Linkage

(Photos from "Understanding the Finer Points of a Mopar E-Body" Vol 1 Vers. 11 by Dave Wise)

Torsion Bars for 426 Hemi or 440 engine option B and E body

Many times people will paint their classic mopar undercarriage full in body color, black or undercoating.  Understand that undercoating would only be correct if it was on the build sheet. This was an option.  It was not on all or most cars.  Undercoating could also be done at the dealer (which would not be on build sheet) when it was delivered but for restoration purposes it would not be correct unless only you have proof of the original build sheet option code.  When restoring a car this is not correct to be done at the factory.  So for correct Undercarriage without the build sheet option proof, the undercarriage should be in factory primer color with about a 30 degree of overspray body color from the outside of the car.  Notice in this photos how the undercarriage is showing primer.

When installing these splash shields many people install both of them from the outside of the car near the wheels.  This is incorrect.  The driver side should be installed from the outside of the car and the passenger side should be installed from inside the engine bay.

Inner Fender Splash Shields on a 1970 E body Challenger or Barracuda

Plymouth 'Cuda   (972)742-8191


The factory/ stock classic mopar starters(as seen in the above photo) for 1968-70s era mopars are very heavy and bulky in comparison to today's starters.  With this being said when we have not done an OE restoration we have used part number 17466 starters which are smaller and less weight for our big block engines.  They even seem to have a stronger start in our experience.  I believe this part number might populate a 1994 or so Dodge Ram with a 5.9 v8 engine.

When dealing with the original starters, there were mainly 2 types of starters used from 1962-1987 for the trucks and cars.  These were gear reduction type starters. There was a shorter starter 1.5hp part #2875560 and casting #2875553. A 1.3hp short starter was also used in 1973. Its part # 3656650. In 1973 another short starter was 1.5hp part# 3656575 which was a later production date. The second type of starter was the larger starters which were .5 to and 1 inch longer than the 1.5hp starter. They were 1.8hp and introduced in 1975.  These part numbers were #3755250, 4091950, and more.

When dealing with 426 Hemi engines in the 1966-69 with a 4 speed they used direct drive starters.(reference, Finer Points of Mopar E body, www.mmcdetroit.com)

Rear Suspension colors are as follows(E body):
Drive shaft - Natural
Emergency Brake cable - Natural
Leaf Springs - Natural(heat treated look), some were satin black.
Leaf spring clamps - Natural
Pinion snubber - satin black or natural
Rear spring front brackets - Natural
Rear sway bar and brackets - Natural
Shackle brackets - Natural
Shocks - Satin Black
U bolts - Natural
U joint and U joint straps - Natural

Undercarriage

Restoration literature that I could recommend are books sold by Dave Wise and books sold by Galen Govier.

These torsion bar numbers are 780 and 781 which are used on 426 Hemi and 440 engine optioned Barracuda (Cuda model), Charger RT, Challenger RT, Coronet RT, Road Runner, GTX.